E-BIKE CONVERSION STEP-BY-STEP WHAT PROBLEMS YOU MAY HAVE, ASSEMBLING THE MOTOR + BATTERY

Hi, everyone ebike conversion. Is it easy or difficult? This is the whole process of mounting central model which will be located under your bottom bracket. I bought this kit. I bought the bike Canada, but specifically for this job for this project and I'm gonna show you mainly what problems you can come upon during the whole process. The link to the set is in the description and I bought probably the worst bike for this kit possible, which is great for you guys because you will see that it's not necessarily so easy and non problematic unless you have very, very typical frame. The frame on my Canada back boy was not typical, so you will see what can happen during this process. This is what you get here. You get the display, you get the braking levers with the sensors, remote control the throttle. Just remember and all the tools.

Just remember that putting the throttle on your bike may make it no longer a bicycle which you can use on the bike lanes. So make sure you know that these are the parts. We're not going to need the crank set from the rail front trailer shifter. Of course, the cable and housing. And you can also swap the original braking levers with these, which come with a set which have the sensors breaking sensors. That means when you break, the motor will be switched off. I don't use it. I'm not putting it on the bike. I'm not using the throttle either. I'm just going to put the throttle on the bike just for the sake of this tutorial. Let's get started. We need to remove the chain if you know the basic stuff like this. Removing the chain. Finding the chain quick link removing the cranks that you can simply speed up this video too. Let's say one point 25 on YouTube and then focus on the ebike parts.

Specifically, the crank sets that I have on the bike is the triple cranks. You can see three chain rings. This conversion means changing it to the one by drive train. Because the crank set that comes with the motor is one chain ring, which is okay for an Ebike, but just know that this is the change you're gonna make. You have to make. This is the removal tool that comes with this kit. It's a square tapered system here, but as you can see, the thread on the crank set is being damaged here. So I needed to simply remove the the removal tool and use my original high quality topic removal tool. I wrote to them to the Rapid company about the problems I had with some parts from them. They answered me that they will try to fix all of those.

But the crank it removal tool was not good quality. It can damage your threats if you need to do it with some other systems. There is the link in the description with my huge tutorial video and you will find some other bottom bracket systems and anything pretty much about your bike that you would need to do it to prepare it for this conversion. So remember when I'm standing, just note when I'm standing on the drive side, right side on the bike and left side, and when I'm turning the nuts clockwise and counterclockwise, I'm not explaining it here in this video. Just make sure you do it in the right way.

Once again, my huge tutorial video is bike maintenance can be very, very helpful. Removing the front driver with its cable and housing. So we are removing some parts. We are putting some more parts. The bike will be approximately 8 kg heavier. And you can read for modify manual bike to electric bike in previous article. Something about that. And if you have a very simple frame, you're not going to have additional problems with it. In order to remove the shifter, we need to remove other parts on this bike. I'm going to remove the grip, the handlebar grips in a second. But before you put the handlebar grips back onto your handlebars, which can be time consuming, make sure you check out everything.

So the throttle, the shifter, the remote controller on which side you want to have it. How you want to cut the grips? Perhaps because some parts can collide on the handlebars, you will see that in a second here. I'm showing you how to remove the grips, which are stuck to just use a little bit of water from both sides with the syringe. You don't have to use any oil spray or hair. Lack anything. You don't have to use it. The water is just fine. This is the original bottom bracket. And as you can see, this set comes with the building bottom bracket, same system, square tapered system.

It's compatible. This is the very, very, very typical BSA bottom bracket on my bike. So we need to install the motor and then we need to lock it into place so that it can work. Preparing everything here seems very, very easy. Just make sure you remember where the spacers are when you remove it. And now problem number one, I cannot go through the bottom bracket shell with this whole system. And my first thought was that the bottom bracket was not compatible. But hey, this is the BSA, the starter one. The diameter is same. This was the problem.

I need you to file some little pieces of metal that just stick out from this hole on the bottom bracket shell, especially on the new bikes. This can happen, but it can happen also on the old bikes. And since there's quite tight tolerance here, this need to be filed. Make sure there is no pieces of metal left on the thread. You want to have your threads clean.

Don't put the grease just yet. I'm just trying it now because now we are coming across the problem number. So there is nothing in the bottom bracket shell that stops the motor from going through the bottom bracket shell. But there is this plastic slider for the front trailer cable, which is not compatible with this system. If you have also the red cable going through the slider, not having a full housing from the shifter to the trailer, you won't be able to use the system because I needed to remove the slider.

And since I removed the front railer, it was okay here. But the red railer has the housing here. So problem number one solve number two solve now, problem number three is the cables, the housings that are left. So I need to remove the cable for the re driller and just pull the housings back into the frame so that they won't stop the motor. And I'm happy to say here that I had the mechanical this breaks if it will be hydraulic one that's all this whole process would be much more complicated.

So I'm pulling those two housings into the frame, making sure that the cables are there and easy to pull out again. But the housing now are not on the way, which doesn't necessarily mean that I'm done with solving all the problems now filing the frame itself, you can see that the part for the housing here is just the open ports. So the main tube, the down tube here is open at the bottom brackets area, and it was actually stopping the mounting for the bolts of the motor to come all the way through. Note that you might void the warranty for the frame doing this. I had to do it on my Canada bad boy.

So make sure you don't have anything crazy going on here around the bottom bracket area because this is the central motor, bottom bracket motor. Bottom bracket area should be very, very typical, with no things that can be on the way. Now I'm using the grease because now I know it comes all the way through. I've checked the chain line because you get at least two spaces with this motor and you can set the chain and pretty much as it should be for the one by drive train. So finally, I can see the bike. The housings are on their.

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